Pearls of Paris

Fresh fish: Foujita

2011-02-06T13:28:00.000-08:00

The Japanese restaurant Foujita has been around for more than three decades. Located in the Japanese quarter in Paris, where you find real estate ads exclusively in Japanese, groceries with unpronounceable products and many more exotic things, this restaurant is where I have lunch every other Saturday or so.

The place is anything but fancy, cool and design. It is more like a canteen. But the quality is indisputable, the service is quick and prices are ok. I like to sit in the bar and watch the guys prepare the dishes: sushi, sashimi, nuta, yakimono, natto, wagarashi, sunomono, makisushi, ippin ryouri, gohan/wan, yokan, ogura rice... My husband loves the chirashi whilst I generally opt for the sakedon. As it is often crowded, be early or book a table.

41 rue Saint Roch

75001 PARIS

Métro Pyramides (line 7 and 14)

01 42 61 69 39

Blissful bakery: Des gâteaux et du pain

2011-02-06T12:43:00.000-08:00

Paris is exceptionally spoiled with wonderful bakeries. Bread is an utterly important element of the French cuisine: It is simply unthinkable to serve a meal without bread. Of course French bakeries sell the famous baguette - and all its varieties like my favorite called "le rustique" - but they come up with so incredibly much more... and it is really worth trying.

Each year, an award is given to the best bakery in Paris. The lucky - and well deserving - winner gets the privilege of becoming the official bread supplier to l`Elysée (the President´s residence). You can imagine yourself how the turnover soars, not only due to the President`s appetite for bread... Parisians do not mind walking a few minutes extra in the evening if at the end of the walk there is some fabulously well made bread to accompany their dinner.

As far as I know "Des gâteaux et du pain" is yet to become the best bakery in town (competition is stiff!), but it is one of my preferred addresses. They make a divine country bread called Polka, but they definitely know how to prepare other kinds of bread too, not to mention cakes or home-made marshmallows with a taste of orange flower.

Have a look at their website where all products are clearly exposed.

Des gâteaux et du pain

63 Boulevard Pasteur

75015 PARIS

Métro Pasteur (line 6 and 12)

Closed on Tuesdays

http://www.desgateauxetdupain.com/

Life is sweet: Käramell

2010-08-22T10:45:00.000-07:00

We all know that the French are extremely gifted for making good food and wine. They excel in everything from appetizers to miniardises. It is indeed a fabulous country to live in! Nevertheless, although the French make maybe the finest chocolate in Europe, there is one culinary domain where they still can make significant progress: "Les bonbons".

I dear to say that there is no real culture for sweets in France. Of course, you find delicious specialities like calissons, fondants and caramels au beurre salé. However, if you want to buy some winegums at the movies, some marshmallows at the supermarket or some fruit gums at the bakery, you are often left with boring and chemical-tasting Haribo.

For sweets that taste more natural, that are more delicate - yes, simply better, I strongly recommend the shop Käramell run by Lena, a Swedish sweet tooth. Lena`s shop is cosy and colourful and the variety of sweets is unrivaled in Paris. Most of the produce is imported from Sweden and tastes way better than what you can find elsewhere in town. Lena also sells some nice accessories and products reflecting where she has her roots.

15 rue des Martyrs, 75009 Paris

Métro Notre Dame de Lorette (line 12)

www.karamell.fr

Christian Constant`s tasty street

2010-08-11T03:53:00.000-07:00

In rue Saint Dominique Christian Constant displays three nice restaurants.

While Le Violon d`Ingrès is the stylish, all-white place, Les Cocottes is the more relaxed one where the dish of the day is often enjoyed at the counter. Both places serve excellent food, and the service is impeccable. At Le Violon d`Ingrès it is wise to book a table in advance. Les Cocottes, however, does not take reservations. I recommend showing up early (12.15 for lunch and 19.15 for dinner) to avoid standing in line. The third one, Café Constant, is a traditional café with more rustic food that I do not know as well as the two others.

Christian Constant is not a modest man calling one of his desserts at Les Cocottes "La fabuleuse tarte au chocolat de Christian Constant". He is honest, though. The chocolate cake is fabulous and very different from any other I have tasted. It is simply the best. It tastes divine and litterarly melts in your mouth. A must for any meal at Les Cocottes...

135-139 rue Saint Dominique, 75007 Paris

Métro Ecole Militaire (line 8)

http://www.leviolondingres.com/

A charming, old fashioned grocery: Epicerie Lion

2010-01-26T14:27:00.000-08:00

Epicerie Lion is the perfect place for buying nice and original gifts that will not end up in a drawer or on a dusty shelf. If you know the place already, I am sure you have noticed their charming food kits. What a great idea for a gift! All the ingredients required for a given recipe are piled up in a small and delicate plastic wrapping. The kit for the rice pudding with cinnamon tea and tatin apples, for instance, contains a layer of rice, another one of sugar, a small bag of tatin apples and the required amount of cinnamon tea. Everything you need (except milk!) to make your succulent dessert, or to offer an original, tasty and playful gift to a friend. The kits come in salt versions as well. Who wouldn’t care for a risotto with chanterelle and almonds..?

On the wooden shelves you find well chosen products in a wide range of categories: spices, olive oils, premium quality fruit juices (try the summery strawberry-apple), mustards, pasta, sauces, chocolates, biscuits, sweets (do not miss the fabulous marshmallow sticks with great, natural flavours like vanilla, strawberry, anise, orange blossom…), herbal tea and so on.

For the ones that like to tender their own garden, Epicerie Lion sells seedcorn for growing old-fashioned carrots, tomatoes and radish. In the green corner of the shop, you can also find bulbs for four-leaved clovers – allowing you to cultivate good luck. For yourself and for your loved ones.

The staff is friendly and happy to offer advice.

7 rue des Abbesses, 75018 Paris

Métro: Abbesses (line 12)
www.epicerie-lion.fr/

Fabulous lunch, no ruin: Relais Louis XIII

2010-01-26T11:55:00.000-08:00

Relais Louis XIII is my absolute favourite address for lunch in Paris.

On weekdays, this 2 stars restaurant offers a lunch menu that represents exceptional value for money: For 50 euros you can enjoy an exquisite and generous meal: appetizer, starter, main course, cheese, dessert and mignardises.

As an illustration, I paste the menu suggested on 26 Jan 2010:

Terrine de coquilles Saint-Jacques à la ciboulette /Œuf mollet et émulsion d’asperges vertes /Coquillages juste cuit en coque, persil et jus de Bellota

Pêche de ligne du jour " suivant arrivage"/ Confit de joue et aiguillette de bœuf saignante,pommes de terre dorées au poivre noir /Cuisse de volaille de Bresse façon demi-deuil, légumes oubliés

Sélection de fromages frais et affinés

Chiboust à la vanille et pomme/Chocolat et praliné façon Paris-brest/Soupe de coco-ananas, sorbet à la mangue

Service is discreet, friendly and efficient in this place where time stands still.

8 Rue des Grands Augustins, 75006 Paris
Métro Saint-Michel (line 4)

www.relaislouis13.com/

Send me an angel: La Boutique des Anges

2009-12-07T01:46:00.000-08:00

Although the shop is open all year, December is clearly the best month for visiting La Boutique des Anges at Montmartre.

The store is tiny and crowded with angels (and often with people as well). Sacred music gets you in the mood and optimises the chances that you fall for a angel figurine, an angelic postcard, a puny pocket angel (to watch over you wherever you go), an angel soap, a book or some other angelic item.

The old-fashioned place is really unique. And irresistible in December.

2, rue Yvonne le Tac 75018 Paris

Métro Abbesses (line 12)

Wallpaper with soul: Farrow & Ball

2009-11-20T00:36:00.001-08:00

The most beautiful wallpapers in Paris. I am particularly fond of the ones with bold stripes.

So British, so chic! Need I say more?

50 Rue de l'Université, 75007 Paris
Métro rue du bac (line 12)

http://www.farrow-ball.com/

The queen of details: Nadine Delepine

2009-10-21T07:29:00.000-07:00

Nadine Delepine's boutique is one of my favourites. The shop is located in a street called "rue princesse" (really!) and its front is painted with mild, inviting colours.

Inside you find Nadine's lovely jewellery creations as well as chic accessories selected by her. The latter comprises porte-monnaies, umbrellas, gloves and hats. She makes some accessories herself too, namely some charming shopping bags, porte-monnaies and the like. There are also some clothes to be found in the boutique. I think Nadine is the creator of those as well. Key adjectives for all the items are "romatic" and "nostalgic".

My only regret is that I did not know about this shop when I was a 10-year old girl. It would have been the perfect place to go to with my Mum on a Saturday for cultivating the already quite developped dream of being a princess... :-)

Nadine Delepine, 14, Rue Princesse, 75006 Paris

Métro Mabillon (line 10)

Great lunch value: Krua Thai

2009-10-20T13:31:00.000-07:00

When I started this blog, I did not intend to write about restaurants. Obviously I have changed my mind! I will, however, only include restaurants I return to, i.e. the ones that are part of "my Paris". Krua Thai is one of them. It is a simple restaurant with a family-ambiance; the owners' sweet daughter is often playing at a table at the back of the restaurant.

The service is friendly and the food truly tasty. At lunch they serve a special menu (ask for the lunch menu if you do not get it spontaneously) that I usually opt for. You can choose between two or three starters/maindishes/desserts for 10 euros. I always go for the crispy spring rolls and the coconut-curry-chicken with sticky rice. A delight!

41, Rue du Montparnasse 75014 Paris. Telephone: 01 43 21 90 53

Métro Montparnasse (line 4, 6, 12, 13)

Old-fashioned music boxes: Anna Joliet

2009-07-07T07:53:00.001-07:00

Palais Royal is a delightful place with a delicate perfume from the past. I appreciate the beautiful garden, and strolling in the surrounding arcades where one finds a range of cafes, restaurants, art galleries and boutiques. Boîte à musique Anna Joliet is one of the latter.

This charming shop is specialised in music boxes. Anna Joliet carries music boxes in all styles and all price ranges; from the simplest one-melody box to true masterpieces made in Switzerland. I love specialised boutiques, and this one is no exception!

9 rue de Beaujolais, 750001 PARIS
Métro Palais Royal (line 7)

www.boitesamusique-paris.com

A room with a view: www.groscaillou.net

2009-06-29T02:13:00.000-07:00

A couple of friends of mine rent out their apartment in rue du Gros Caillou, a quiet backstreet in the rather well-to-do Ecole Militaire area. If you need accommodation in Paris for a couple of days or weeks, this is your place!

While landmarks such as the Tour Eiffel, the Invalides, and Pont Alexandre III are all in walking distance, this is a residential quarter with a local atmosphere and several neighbourhood stores and boutiques in close proximity. The great chef Christian Constant having four restaurants just a block away isn't an inconvenient either... People often say that Paris is more like a collection of small towns than one big city; seldom is the saying more true than here.

The apartment dates from the turn of the last century. Renovated in 2003, it comfortably houses two people and can accommodate up to four. Far more than just a place to crash after a day of sightseeing, shopping or work, this is a true home from which you will leave with an insider’s experience of Paris.

www.groscaillou.net

My haunt: La Coupole

2009-06-21T10:03:00.000-07:00

La Coupole has been my favourite café ever since I first came to Paris. I have probably been there hundreds of times, but funnily enough I have never had lunch or dinner there! I do know, however, that the café specialises in seafood and that, according to friends of mine, "les plateaux de fruits de mer" are splendid! For me La Coupole was the place where, for years, I had my hot chocolate before going to class at La Sorbonne or where I had (and still have!) an apéritif before dinner.

When having a glass by myself, I love to sit near the window and watch the hasty street. If it rains, it is even better... La Coupole is a wonderful place to have breakfast too. Choose a table with a banquette (bench), enjoy and observe! Many of the elderly customers are patrons and have their habits...

The interior is all splendid Art Deco and so Parisian. It's grandiose and cosy at the same time. The waiters are dressed as waiters should be dressed, and the whole place is perfectly traditional. A true delight!

102 Boulevard de Montparnasse, 75014 PARIS
Métro Vavin (line 4)

Pamper yourself: Hammam Pacha

2009-06-19T02:33:00.000-07:00

Nestled in the 6th district of Paris is a Moroccan oasis of well-being; the Hammam Pacha. I particularly recommend going there on a grey and rainy day. Be prepared to spend 2-3 hours in the haven of rest.

The Hammam Pacha is a beautiful place. Its decoration evokes “1001 nights”. After having put your clothes in the painted wood lockers in the dressing room and put on your bathrobe, head towards the main hall which is lukewarm and humid. Let your body get used to the ambiance, have a shower (remember to bring scrub products!) and lie down on the tiles. Later, you can visit the sauna and the steam room – before you let the streams in the pool massage your back...

The Hammam offers various treatments, namely massages. I find their massages too gentle and therefore I don’t recommend them. Save your dimes for the culinary pleasures. Before returning to the outside world, spend some time in the relaxation room! Under the arcades, dive into the ocean of cushions and enjoy some mint tea and pastries. Spend time with a good book you have brought with you or take a nap. If you are really hungry, you can enjoy a tajine or some oriental salads in the restaurant afterwards.

Entrance; 35 euros (includes rent of bathrobe and towel). For the cost of the various treatments/massages, see the website (below).

Hammam Pacha is open seven days a week - exclusively for women.
17 Rue Mayet, 75006 PARIS
Métro Duroc (line 10 and 13)
http://www.hammampacha.com/

My favourite spot: Place de Furstemberg

2009-03-08T09:53:00.001-07:00

In a breathtaking city like Paris, it is naturally very hard to tell which place is "the most beautiful one". The answer will always be subjective and difficult to give. However, like most people, I have some favourite spots in the town where I live. I have written about some of them, and there are more articles to come.

I love the cosy area near Abbesses, the superbe park "Jardin du Luxembourg", the impressive courtyard of "my" university La Sorbonne (see separate articles), the charming island Ile Saint-Louis, the stunning Place des Vosges, the village-like Place Dauphine, and many other addresses. Nevertheless, if I should name THE place that best captures Paris' spirit, I would elect Place de Furstemberg.

The dimensions are perfect, the surrounding architecture rich, and the harmony complete. It is grandiose, but it doesn't give you the feeling of being in a busy and big city. It is Paris.

At the very address of Place de Furstemberg you'll find some nice textile- and interiorshops. One minute walk will take you to the English-spoken wineshop "La dernière goutte" (6 rue Bourbon le Château) as well as to Cosi, the perfect place for lunch with delicious sandwiches made with straight-from-the-oven-Italian bread (54 rue de Seine). No mystery I come here almost every Saturday...

Métro Mabillon (line 10) or Saint-Germain-des-Près (line 4)

PS: The marvellous litography illustrating this article is made by Jean-Pierre Petit who was generous enough to let me share it with you.

Charlie and the chocolate factory: Rochoux

2009-02-24T13:28:00.000-08:00

A compulsory stop when wandering around in the Saint Germain area is the marvellous chocolate shop of Jean-Charles Rochoux. The shop is small, but the products are grand.

Mister Rochoux invents the recipes and makes his chocolates backstage, but sometimes he gives his sales assistant a helping hand too. He is a very nice man, and is likely to invite you to taste something (he knows that once you have tasted, you cannot resist!).

The shop opened about four years ago, but mister Rochoux learnt his "métier" long time before that. For several years he worked in one of Paris' most famous chocolateries. He has also been dessert chef in the three-star restaurant Guy Savoy.

He makes some absolutely stunning "truffes". However, as the recipe comprises cream, the treasures must be kept in the fridge, and are thus not suited for being brought back home, if you are a tourist. In that case I rather recommend you buy some small, individual chocolates. Have a box filled up, or simply ask for a few pieces in a bag. My all time favourite is "citron" (lemon), but Mira, rose and "framboise" (raspberry) are strong cards on Rochoux' hand too...

Common for them all is that the thin chocolate coating crunches, and that the subtle and tasty ganache cream transport you to the land of perfect well-being, and lets you stay there - indeed the taste lasts for a long time. Simply delicious!

16 rue d'Assas 75006 PARIS . Métro Rennes (line 12)

The final hours of a Queen: La Conciergerie

2009-02-19T01:18:00.001-08:00

Marie-Antoinette was an average woman with a huge destiny. During the French revolution she tempted to flee Paris together with her husband, the king Louis XVI, and their children. Their plan failed, and they were placed in arrest. La Conciergerie is where the incredible life-journey of Marie-Antoinette ended. That is, she was decapitated at Place de la Concorde, but spent her last time in her cell at La Conciergerie in the Palace de la Cité.

As the first royal palace in Paris, this palace had its hour of glory under the Capetian monarchs. In 1793, La Conciergerie became the main prison of the revolutionary law courts. In addition to the revolutionary tribunal, it housed up to 1,200 male and female prisoners at a time. The tribunal sat in the "Great Hall" between 2 April 1793 and 31 May 1795 and sent nearly 2,600 prisoners to the guillotine. Its rules were simple. Only two outcomes existed — a declaration of innocence or a death sentence — and in most cases the latter was chosen.

When visiting the palace as a tourist, you can benefit from a historical presentation of the tragic hours of the Terror. Several cells have been reconstituted, including that of Marie-Antoinette. Today the palace also houses several of Paris' law courts.

Boulevard du Palais, 75001 Paris. Métro Ile de la Cité (line 4)

http://conciergerie.monuments-nationaux.fr/en/

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Conciergerie

A quiet pearl: Le musée de la vie romantique

2009-02-12T05:50:00.000-08:00

This atmosphere museum has kept the lure of the bygone-day Nouvelle Athènes quarter townhouses untouched. It once belonged to painter Ary Scheffer and his nephew by marriage Ernest Renan, and became a shrine to writer George Sand, one of the Romanticism’s leading lights. The museum contains a certain number of pieces of furniture and personal items (portraits, jewellery etc) that used to belong to George Sand, and that were later donated by her daughter Aurore Lauth-Sand. Upstairs you can study some of the works of Ary Scheffer as well works made by some contemporary artists.

Across the courtyard, you will find the atelier where Ary Scheffer worked – and met Chopin, Liszt, Lamartine, Tourgueniev, Delacroix and other celebrities – from 1830 to 1858.

In summertime, the premises of the museum invite you to a romantic moment; sit down in the quiet garden, enjoy the perfume of the roses, drink your afternoon-tea and allow yourself a delicious piece of cake.

Hôtel Scheffer-Renan, 16 rue Chaptal, 75009 Paris

(métro Pigalle, line 2 and 12, and Blanche, line 2)

Perfection all the way: Apicius

2009-02-04T09:15:00.000-08:00

Finding a good restaurant in Paris is easy. The same goes for an excellent restaurant. However, finding a place where you feel like Alice in Wonderland (if you're a girl, that is...) may require some more efforts. The good news is that there is a simple and guaranteed way to make your most exquisite culinary- and service -related fantasies come true. Simply elect "Apicius" as your dining room.

Nestled in a beautiful garden in the very center of Paris is the splendid mansion housing Apicius. The building is said to be owned by a famous French film producer who also happens to be a good friend of the divine chef Vigato. If it is on a summer evening that you choose to enter the premises, you are likely to be greeted with a multitude of candles spread out on the tables in the garden. It's magic.

The long corridor leading to the dining room is often very hectic. Indeed, it links the kitchen and the diningroom. However, when your welcoming waiter walks you through it, the corridor is yours alone. The unpronounced exclamation "freeze!" - that your presence as a guest automatically leads to - pastes all the staff to the walls and makes them bow while uttering "Madame, bonsoir". If you did not get that Alice in Wondeland feeling when entering the garden, you will definitely be filled with it now.

The dining room with its (at least) 5 meter high walls and well-chosen colours and textiles exudes quiet elegance and luxury. The food is nothing but divine. When I have had the plesure of dining at Apicius, recurrent thoughts of mine have been "Is this really fish? Or is it some kind of magic invention made from scratch in the kitchen?" "How can a soufflé be SO perfect?" "I did not know that endivie could taste heavenly!"

What makes Apicius so special is the harmonious combination of location, cuisine and service. The latter comes level with the food. Being Alice in Wonderland is not a free exercice, but the incomparable experience justifies spending some money. The cost of the adventure is not shocking - at least not for special occasions.

20 rue d'Artois, 75008 Paris Métro Saint-Philippe-du-Roule (line 9)
www.restaurant-apicius.com/

Student souvenirs: La Sorbonne

2009-01-25T14:37:00.000-08:00

I have had the plesure of spending four wonderful years in a palace dedicated to knowledge : La Sorbonne. The buildings are beautiful (though not very practical…) and the history of the university is both inspiring and fascinating.

In 1250 the Parisian academia left l’Ile de la Cité, and teaching was hence organised at La Montagne Sainte-Geneviève. The Church imposed latin as spoken language on the premises– whereof the name Quartier Latin (Latin Quarter).

Founded in 1257 by Robert de Sorbon and Saint Louis, the first aim of the Sorbonne was to welcome destitute theology students. The university was rebuilt between 1626 and 1642 upon the wishes of Cardinal Richelieu. It was closed down for several years starting from the Revolution, and teaching was only taken up again in 1821. In 1884 was put down the first stone of the new, expanded university. Nénot, architect in command, imagined La Sorbonne as we know it today.

One of the treasures that are housed by La Sorbonne is the Library (photo above). How can you not feel inspired when sitting and reading in such a beautiful place? Another pearl is The Large Amphithéâtre. The latter is where graduates receive their diplomas. In The Large Amphithéâtre, that has space for some 3000 people, are statues of Sorbon, Descartes, Lavoisier, Rollin, Pascal and Richelieu. In the dome you can see symbols of Law, Medicine, Science, Litterature and Theology – the five faculties that constituted the university in 1889. Above the scene is the famous and symbolic painting “le bois sacré” (the sacred woods) by Puvis de Chavannes. The beautiful piece of art measures 25,60 m x 4,50 m.

Of the former Sorbonne, there remains only the chapel, built by Lemercier between 1635 and 1642. The Cardinal's tomb, by Girardon, is located inside.

La Sorbonne is still the most famous university in France. It is worth visiting, but a visit is not necessarily easy to organise. You can try by writing to Visites.Sorbonne@ac-paris.fr. If you are a group, your chances of success are certainly greater than if you are a single person. Need I say that writing in French would be a smart move..?

Métro Cluny La Sorbonne (line 10)
http://www.sorbonne.fr/

Wild animals, insects and curiosities: Deyrolle

2009-01-18T06:59:00.001-08:00

Since 1831 the unique store Deyrolle has been the central point in Paris for entomology and taxidermy; wild animals, rare butterflies, strange insects, beautiful shells, old-fashioned science posters and other curiosities linked to mother nature can all be found in this beautiful store in rue du bac.

Deyrolle has always been a fascinating and inspiring place both for scientists and for profanes like myself. The painters Bernard Buffet, Mathieu, Salvador Dali and André Breton, the writer Louise de Vilmorin as well as the philosopher Théodore Monod were often seen here.

In early 2008 a tragic fire caused great damages to the boutique and the unique collection. Deyrolle being an important parisian landmark, last winter several artists gathered around the noble cause of its restoration: 75 works of art were sold at an auction and brought in 260 000 euros. Thanks to this tremendous help, Deyrolle is progressively being rebuilt. Several rooms are already fully restored. I strongly recommend that you a drop by, it is worth the visit!

46 rue de Bac (métro Rue de Bac, line 12)
http://www.deyrolle.com/ (website only in French)

Cinema Paradiso: Le Chaplin

2009-01-16T04:41:00.000-08:00

In Paris you can find many local theaters called "cinémas de quartier". Le Saint-Lambert, recently renamed Cinéma Chaplin, is one of them.

At Le Saint-Lambert time has stood still for many years. There are few signs that we have actually passed the 50s... The elderly man selling old-fashioned tickets with slow and meticulous gestures has probably worked there for decades.

Le Saint-Lambert is never in a hurry. Movies come to this place when they are taken off from other theaters. The combination of a small theater and lots of different films means you must pay careful attention to the program (see link further down). A given film is maybe just being projected every Wednesday afternoon, whilst another one is solely being shown on Sunday evenings. The advantage is that it is never crowdy: fifteen people at the most is my own, personal experience. Another good point is that there is a decent selection of films in "version originale" (not dubbed into French).

Forget about popcorn, crisps and modern jelly beans. However, if you would like to buy a traditional chocolate bar, then pick one from the small selection in the wicker basket near the entrance and tell the old gentleman.

Find out what's playing at the moment: www.allocine.fr/seance/salle_gen_csalle=W7515.html (NB: VF = French, dubbed version. VO = original version with French subtitles)

6 rue Péclet (métro Vaugirard, line 12), close to the townhall of the XVth district.

The summum of prêt à porter: Paule Ka

2009-01-14T10:43:00.001-08:00

Serge Cajfinger makes timeless and very chic prêt à porter inspired by Grace Kelly, Audrey Hepburn and Jackie Kennedy. Always stylish and classy, sometimes sexy, but never vulgar.

The PK clothes are quite expensive (400-1000 euros for a dress), so look out for the sales, and remember that it can be great to combine designer clothes with much more affordable pieces. That perfectly cut PK-jacket can make you look outstandingly good, although the rest of your outfit comes from H&M or Zara!

There are several PK-shops and corners in Paris. I recommend the shop located 192 Boulevard Saint Germain (métro Saint Germain des Prés, line 4) as well as the corner at Le Bon Marché (métro Sèvres-Babylone, line 10 and 12). www.pauleka.com

Cheesy fantasies: Quatrehomme

2009-01-14T09:30:00.001-08:00

To fully appreciate the exotic results of turning goat- sheep- and cow's milk into cheeses, check out this Rive-Gauche fromagerie, run by one of the most respected cheese experts in Paris, Marie Quatrehomme. Personally, I appreciate a lot her reblochon, comté fruité, tête de moine and camembert.

Enjoy your cheese with a rustic baguette and some white wine. The latter often matches cheese better than red wine. Camembert, for instance, tends to give a "metallic" taste to red wine whilst it goes perfectly together with white.

62 rue de Sèvres (métro Vaneau, line 10)

Heaven for Port- and Armagnac-lovers: Ryst Dupeyron

2009-01-14T09:23:00.000-08:00

Ryst-Dupeyron specializes in vintage armagnac, as well as Bordeaux grands cru, port and malt whiskies. If you look for a birthday present, you will definitely find something from the year your friend is born. The staff is very friendly, gives great explanations and willingly answers questions you may have. There are generous possibilities for tasting as well...

79 rue du Bac (métro Rue du Bac, line 12)
www.ryst-dupeyron.com

A "Parisian" shopping experience: Le Bon Marché

2009-01-14T09:22:00.000-08:00

There are other shopping centers in Paris that are more known abroad (like Galeries Lafayette and Printemps), but the one and only that is truly Parisian and chic is Le Bon Marché.

The atmosphere is calm and bourgeois. There are no disturbing announcements of promotions, nor any hip music. If any music is heard, it is most likely Bach or Händel, and you are never obliged to raise your voice and compete with the music when addressing someone.

Books, records, jewellery, cosmetics, prêt à porter, lingerie, shoes, furniture, art de table - at Le Bon Marché you find it all. Do not miss La Grande Epicérie in the building next door - clearly Paris' best supermarket for food.

24 rue de Sèvres (métro Sèvres-Babylone, line 10 and 12)
www.lebonmarche.fr/

A walk in Amélie's footpaths: Abbesses

2009-01-14T09:18:00.000-08:00

One of the most charming areas in Paris is Abbesses. It is also a treasured place for all those who cannot help but smile when they think of the film "Le fabuleux destin d'Amélie Poulain".

Enjoy a walk in the cosy streets, and let the Parisian old-fashioned ambiance fill your mind: Rue des Abbesses with all its cafés, Rue Lepic with all its fabulous food shops (and the "Café des Deux Moulins" from the film), Rue Yvonne le Tac, Rue des Trois Frères...

In Rue des Abbesses you find a wonderful bakery called Coquelicot (www.coquelicot-montmartre.com/) where you can buy tasty "pains spéciaux", for instance olive-bread and bread with gooseliver bites.

When coming from Rue des Abbesss, I recommend you walk Rue Lepic both downwards and upwards - all the way to Place M.Aymé where you will find a very charming theater. Continue straight ahead towards Place Dalida, and then take Rue de l'Abreuvoir. If you stay on the west-side of the cathedral, you will find lots of enchanting streets and houses.

If it is your first time in Paris, it is worth to walk up the stairs from Place Saint-Pierre (or take the funicular), enjoy the spectacular view and have a glimpse at the Sacré Coeur cathedral - but elsewise focus on Abbesses and avoid the touristic area near the cathedral.

Métro: Abbesses, line 12.
"Le fabuleux destin d'Amélie Poulain" trailer: www.youtube.com/watch?v=sECzJY07oK4 (English trailers are also available on youtube)

The essence of Paris: Jardin du Luxembourg

2009-01-14T09:17:00.001-08:00

Created in 1612 following the wish of Marie de Médicis, Jardin du Luxembourg is a beautiful park in the center of Paris and a cherished meetingpoint for Parisians.

Green, characteristic chairs are found all around the park, even when the lawns are covered with snow (it happens!). In spring- and summertime astoningly beautiful flower arrangements can be admired.

The park houses the Palais du Luxembourg (le Sénat), a prestigious engineer school, a museum, an orangerie and lots of quality sculptures representing animals, French queens and princesses, greek mythology, composers...

Many Parisians spend their Sundays in the park, playing chess, tennis, bridge, basketball or reading in the sun. Children can rent old-fashioned sailboats and steer them with sticks on the dam in front of the Sénat, go pony/donkey-riding, attend puppet theater and enjoy mary-go-round-horses.

Be aware that you are not allowed to walk on the lawns. If you do so, you will soon here a whistle and see a guard approaching with a finger lifted high up in the air...

Métro: Odéon (line 4 and 10), Rennes (line 12), Saint Sulpice (line 4), Cluny la Sorbonne (line 10), Notre Dame des Champs (line 12) Vavin (line 4)

The King of Pastry: Pierre Hermé

2009-01-14T09:16:00.000-08:00

The pastry of Pierre Hermé is as beautiful as it is delicious and subtle. Some creations can be found all year long, like my all-time-favourite Ispahan (rose macaron with fresh raspberry and lychee) whilst others vary according to the season. Indeed, in line with French fashion industry, Pierre Hermé launches his summer- and winter-collection... So chic!

If you are a tourist and want to buy something you can eat outdoors, I recommend that you opt for a couple of macarons (easy to handle!).

There are two shops in Paris and several in Tokyo.

72 rue Bonaparte (métro Saint Sulpice, line 4)

185 rue de Vaugirard (métro Pasteur, line 6 and 12)

http://www.pierreherme.com/

A beautiful museum: Nissim de Camondo

2009-01-14T09:12:00.000-08:00

The Nissim de Camondo museum takes you into one of the most sumptuous private homes from the early twentieth century in Paris.

Moïse de Camondo, a reputed Parisian banker during the Belle Epoque, was a passionate collector of French furniture and art objects from the eighteenth century, and he amassed a collection of unusual quality. In 1911, he hired architect René Sergent to build a private mansion next to Parc Monceau that would be worthy of this collection and suitable for his family. Behind the handsome décor of wood-paneled apartments were hidden the accoutrements of modern life, including kitchens, offices and bathrooms. The home, which is fully preserved in its original condition, offers an opportunity to discover the taste of a great collector and to get a glimpse of the everyday life of an aristocratic home.

63 rue de Monceau (métro Monceau, line 2 and Villiers, line 2 and 3)
www.lesartsdecoratifs.fr/francais/nissim-de-camondo/ (The best photos are found on the French pages)